Motorcycles can often feel like time machines. They encourage you to explore roads that once were main thoroughfares but are now sleepy backroads. They take you along winding paths filled with old barns, small towns and sometimes century-old covered bridges.
Feeling a call to revisit Virginia’s Back of the Dragon this summer, I vowed to explore some side roads I’d ignored on previous trips and seek out several of the historic covered bridges that still span mountain creeks along the Virginia/West Virginia border.
Not to be confused with the more frenetic Tail of the Dragon near the Smoky Mountains, Virginia’s Back of the Dragon (Route 16) runs from Marion to Tazewell across three mountain ranges. It’s relaxed pace and mix of scenery makes it my primary route whenever I venture northward through Appalachia. The Back of the Dragon stretches 32 miles and features more than 400 curves.
From Marion, the road runs through Hungry Mother State Park, which features a scenic lake and ample outdoor activities. I reach the top of the ridgeline above the park to see a rider next to a gleaming 2022 Harley-Davidson Road Glide at the scenic overlook.
“I’m wandering to New Jersey and taking the long way,” said Ed Witas of Statesboro, Georgia. “I didn’t even know this had a name on it. I looked on the map and saw all the switchbacks. Then when I saw it had a name, and I was like I have to go ride it.”
I nodded in agreement, pleased at seeing another long-distance rider who avoids four-lane highways when possible. Witas said he’d eventually have to hit the interstate, but he didn’t seem to be in any hurry on this sunny day.
The Back of the Dragon is a thrilling, yet more peaceful riding experience. Its longer length lets you connect with the countryside more so than other reptile-named routes.
“It’s got a lot of technical twisties and stuff, but there’s also some sweepy curves. There are some spots where you can catch your breath. It’s the Cherohala and the Tail all in one,” said Beth Takach, the director of the family-run Back of the Dragon themed businesses in Tazewell. “I really like the second mountain coming up from Marion. You’re just powering through those turns.”
In this middle section, Route 42 intersects Route 16. For years, I’ve passed through this small, tree-lined road crossing while heading west to Tazewell. This time, I turned north on 42 to begin my real mission — a trek to see as many covered bridges as I could in the next couple of days. The plan was to ride the eastern half the Back of the Dragon, then loop counter-clockwise seeking out covered bridges, and return via the western end in Tazewell.
Riding through this part of the Southern Appalachian Mountains never disappoints. I roll through the hilly pastureland filling the foreground of the blue mountains on the horizon. My destination on this day was to find the Link Farm and Clover Hollow covered bridges near Blacksburg. Both wooden structures span Sinking Creek. Both wear a traditional coat of red paint, much like many of the old barns in this part of the country.
The only sounds around were the clumping of my motorcycle boots on the smooth, wooden floors and the rustling creek beneath. Even if the magic of such old constructions eludes you, they do make for a peaceful rest stop on a long motorcycle journey. It sure beats a grimy convenience store or interstate rest area any day. I chuckled that I’d ridden about 250 miles in the last 24 hours just for a moment like this. Covered bridges, in their noble obsoleteness, seem to ease my own middle-aged doubts in a fast-paced, ever-changing digital-obsessed world.
As lovely as these two bridges are in their unassuming looks, I was really more interested in reaching the Alleghany Highlands and one of the most picturesque covered bridges I’ve seen — the Humpback Covered Bridge just west of the town of Covington.
“Our mountains truly kind of hug us,” said Lacy Meyer, the marketing and membership coordinator for Alleghany Highlands Chamber of Commerce & Tourism in Covington. “We’re down in the valley. It’s very beautiful. You’re surrounded by all this greenery. It’s absolutely beautiful.
She and the friendly staff of the chamber’s visitors center were eager to help this motorcycle traveler, offering bottled water and pointing out displays and brochures on the numerous area attractions. I have two main pieces of travel advice I give other riders: Always ask locals about the best scenic routes and always stop at the welcome center.
“We have fishing. We have kayaking. We have floating. Douthat State Park is huge for leaf peepers,” she said. “If we have a good fall, the colors are absolutely gorgeous. We want more people, especially motorcyclists, to come and see. Perfect time. Perfect temperature. We have a lot of spots around here you can ride the backroads, and everyone here is very welcoming and friendly.”
Josh Taylor, the executive director of Alleghany Highlands chamber, also reiterated the area as a four-season destination.
“The area is about 49% national forest lands, so there’s scenic drives everywhere. We have several on our website,” he said. “Water recreation is huge here. Lake Moomaw is 43 miles of shoreline completely undeveloped. It’s all Forest Service land around it. It’s gorgeous.”
He was happy to point the way to my main objective: visiting Alleghany Highlands’ picturesque covered bridge. Various state and local agencies are planning future improvements to the popular park, like installing new grills and picnic tables.
“What’s cool about Humpback Bridge, you can get in the water. It’s a very big picnic spot. They’re bring their families and be in the water,” Meyer said. “If you do get a chance, have you been to Falling Spring Falls before? That’s going to be a road you’d want to ride. It’s amazingly curvy. It brings you right up to the falls.”
Reluctantly, I decided to save Falling Spring Falls for another road trip. One always needs to save a few missed destinations to serve as motivation for future motorcycle tours.
Taylor said the chamber’s tagline is “Uniquely Alleghany.” The thriving artist community, outdoor recreation options and stunning natural beauty combine to draw visitors to this corner of Virginia.
“If we have a good fall, the colors are absolutely gorgeous,” Meyer said. “We want more people, especially motorcyclists, to come and see. Perfect time. Perfect temperature. We have a lot of spots around here you can ride the backroads, and everyone here is very welcoming and friendly.”
As informed beforehand, I was met with the sounds of children frolicking in the stream beneath Humpback Covered Bridge as I dismounted my Yamaha Tracer 9 GT and gazed upon the arching bridge, clearly a point of community pride.
The covered bridge, first built in 1857, is Virginia’s oldest surviving covered bridge. It sits in a five-acre park not far from U.S. 60 and Interstate 64. After and enjoyable half-hour of relaxing next to the eye-pleasing piece of 19th century engineering, I needed to press onward.
Humpback Covered Bridge was my farthest point north on this loop, so I headed across the border to White Sulphur Springs, West Virginia, cruising slowly past the well-manicured Greenbrier resort. As much as I’d love to stay there — and seek out the famed secret Cold War bunker beneath it — a Quality Inn in nearby Lewisburg was more within my means.
The next morning, I set off to find four more covered bridges as I ventured south through West Virginia. My online map tantalized me with a fifth covered bridge a good distance to the north, but I deemed too far in the wrong direction — one more item to save for future expeditions.
I arrive at Herns Mill Bridge, originally built in 1884 and still carrying automobile traffic today. It underwent a massive restoration in 2000. The weathered, unpainted siding blends well the rural location. As much as I love all old covered bridges, the garish red barn paint I saw everywhere in Virginia, just seems to distract from the simple, architectural purity of such structures. Such was my feeling after venturing a few more miles to the town of Roceverte, where Hokes Mill Covered Bridge, another covered bridge in the Greenbrier Valley, awaited. My heart sank a bit when I saw it was painted red.
Hokes Mill Covered Bridge, 35-feet longer than Herns Mill, doesn’t carry traffic since being bypassed by the state roadway ages ago. The newer, uglier, and — in some engineer’s mind — much superior concrete bridge next to it at least makes for a good vantage spot to photograph the circa-1897 bridge.
I set off again, pleased with my progress of having found five of the seven bridges on my list of attractions. U.S. 219 took me south to my final leg of this bridge hunt. For the second or third time this trip, I noticed several deer along the side of the road. They didn’t seem to be afraid of passing vehicles, and it took a blast from my horn to make them retreat into the tree line.
Laurel Creek Covered Bridge, built in 1910, sits 10 miles west of U.S. 219 on a narrow, paved road. The short, 24-foot bridge still carries traffic to a few rural homes. The neighbors will politely wave to a high-viz-clad motorcyclist gawking their 115-year-old passageway over the creek.
Onward, I flowed along the nearly empty backroads. One of the joys of motorcycling in West Virginia is their resistance to stop lights. I forgot when the last time I had to put a foot on the ground. It was in this reverie that I rounded a curve and almost blew past Indian Creek Covered Bridge, the final bridge on my journey.
The 49-foot Indian Creek Covered Bridge, built in 1898, sits next to U.S. 219 and features informative signs courtesy of the Monroe County Historical Society on the turbulent clashes between settlers and indigenous people in what became known as “Indian Creek.”
A spacious park and ample parking lot surround the bridge. I rested in the shade while admiring the bridge and rechecking my navigation maps. I had a GPS unit with me, but I seldom use it unless really necessary. Memorizing road numbers and small towns suits my analog soul better. I had about a 90-minute ride down to Tazewell, Virginia, and a cold beer at the Back of the Dragon Brewery, gift shop and pizzeria.
Several blissful miles later, I turn east from Bluefield and eventually roll into Tazewell’s new Back of the Dragon headquarters, parking my bike next to a bevy of cruisers, adventure and sports bikes. Each year I visit, the place seems to make new strides. Last year, they added a kitchen to make fresh hand-tossed pizza, nachos and salads.
“Pizza and beer, it’s a no-brainer,” Takach said. “I wanted to do really good pizza. My neighbors come here to eat pizza, and I don’t want to make my neighbors mad. Six months of the year, we are just your local pizza and brewery. We’re really proud of our food offerings, nachos, salads, all the good stuff.”
I savored my pizza as riders strolled in, some for souvenirs, some for a cold brew and some just for a regular dinner outing.
“We’re trying to point out this is an actual destination, not just a pit stop. You could ride for a whole week and not catch everything. If you have two days, three days, come have fun,” Takach said.
Her father, Larry Davidson, is the visionary behind making the Back of the Dragon a must-ride destination for motorcyclists. He coined the phrase and earned backing from local towns and the commonwealth of Virginia to make the scenic route a travel destination.
“Like my father used to say, if you want a scene, go to the Tail. If you want a great ride and great place to hang out, come see us,” she said.
The Back of the Dragon Brewery also helps organize Tazewell’s Oktobrewfest during the first weekend in October. The event features local breweries, live music and food trucks on Main Street with the Back of the Dragon hosting the after party.
“There’s other things on Main Street,” Takach said. “I want you happy, because then you associate that with Back of the Dragon. I don’t have to just get your dollar. I want you happy to be in Tazewell. Happy to be in southwest Virginia. It’s helping my community, and that’s happiness to me.”
