Dark Corners doesn’t sound like an inviting motorcycle destination when low clouds and brisk temperatures engulf the Blue Ridge, but shortly after dropping down U.S. 176 the clouds vanish and I savor the feeling of warm sunshine on black leather.
This region of Upstate South Carolina offers milder weather, great roads and a rich history for two-wheeled explorers. It makes a great day trip on those colder days when the higher elevations require more dedication to the sport.
Just south of the border of the Carolinas, where the Blue Ridge Escarpment suddenly drops to meet the Piedmont, a wonderful group of two-lane roads cross through northern Greenville County. The “dark corners of South Carolina” earned its nickname in the 1800s for resisting the nullification of federal authority and being slow to join the cause of secession. Its remoteness also made it a haven for moonshiners and Civil War deserters.
Highway 11, the Cherokee Foothills Scenic Highway, crosses the area and offers great views of mountains to the north. It also connects to routes 14, 414 and U.S. 176, all great motorcycling roads linking several Upstate communities including Landrum.
Landrum features the area’s best cultural offerings, centered on a vibrant arts and equestrian scene. The Hare & Hound pub on the corner of U.S. 176 and S.C. 14 in Landrum makes a perfect stop for lunch. Adorned with photos and artwork of horses, the quaint eatery offers pub and American fare, patio dining and a generous beer and wine selection.
Outside of town, the rolling farmland and sparse traffic beg you to roll on the throttle and lose yourself in the countryside.
I grab a handful of front brake and click down a few gears when the sight of the historic marker breaks my blissful road trance. This unassuming field next to the North Pacolet River, a few miles east of Landrum on S.C. 14, is where the Battle of Earle’s Ford took place in July 1780.
Peeling off my helmet, I dismount and check out at the peaceful tree-lined river and empty pasture. Historians say it was here during the Revolutionary War when a group of British loyalists dragoons carried out a nighttime sneak attack on the sleeping patriot forces under the command of North Carolina Col. Charles McDowell. The loyalists killed eight patriots before being repelled by the larger patriot forces, which counterattacked the following day and drove the British troops south.
Two riders who frequently explore the back roads near here are Roland Linder of Tryon and Lauren Bergrud of Columbus. “I love these back roads around here,” said Linder, a retired motorcycle and sports car racer originally from Belgium. “They are clean roads, smooth roads, windy roads and no traffic down here.”
I met up with them a few months ago in Landrum to ride alongside their vintage Japanese motorcycles to nearby Campbell’s Covered Bridge. Linder owns several bikes from a vintage Triumph to a Sturgis model Harley-Davidson, but he meets me on his beautifully preserved 1983 Honda CX650.
Bergrud arrives on a black 1983 Yamaha Maxim 750 and leads the way along the winding two-lane roads to the covered bridge. “There’s such a nice variety,” she says of the area’s roads. You’re kind of in the treeline and then out in the open space. It’s twisty and up and down. It definitely keeps you paying attention.”
Campbell’s Covered Bridge off S.C. 414 dates back to 1909, the old wooden structure over Beaverdam Creek survives as the only historic covered bridge in South Carolina. The quiet park owned by Greenville County makes an excellent riding destination in itself and a great place to walk off a few saddle miles.
For architecture fans, the Poinsett Bridge about 10 miles away should be on your must-see list. One of the oldest bridges in the state, the stone structure on Callahan Mountain Road features a unique narrow Gothic arch. Built in 1820, it spans a small creek in a wooded hollow. Some say it’s haunted. It definitely feels spooky to a lone motorcyclist as the afternoon shadows begin to climb to mountain.
I ramble my way to Hogback Mountain Road with its gentle curves as you ride past the peach orchards. It’s too soon for the pink blossoms to appear, so I remind myself to return in a few weeks for nature’s reawakening. Soon, I’m back in Landrum and turn north on U.S. 176 to take me back to the Old North State.
As I cross the state line at the Tryon city limits, I veer left to make a loop around Lake Lanier. This 140-acre, man-made private lake on the South Carolina side of the state line began in the 1920s as a housing development. Vacation homes, old and new, line the shore. I pause at the site of the former Lake Lanier Tea House to enjoy the view of the picturesque mountain lake. Built in 1925, the now closed restaurant once played host to three presidents and writer F. Scott Fitzgerald, according to the Lake Lanier Civic Association. It stands empty today, but I notice a few signs someone may be starting to redevelop it.
With the sun now hiding behind the mountains, I pour on the power after leaving Tryon on U.S. 176 to carve my way up the Pacolet River gorge toward home. With all its rich history, scenic beauty and sparsely populated roads, I know I’ll be back soon. A rider’s paradise can hide in Dark Corners.
