Exits and Returns: Three Weeks from Appalachia to the Rockies
The mountains hang like a dream — one that is unseen but sensed, like Kafka’s castle, haunted by places unknown and untouched, yet somehow familiar. This collection of memories, like the Midwest roads that bridge them, begins last July. On that humid afternoon, I packed and strapped the back of the Bonneville with a three-week…
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Helene’s Wrath: Fleeing the Aftermath With a Weeklong Odyssey
On the third day with no power, no water and no more ready-to-eat food, I looked at my Yamaha Tracer 9 GT…
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Alabama adventure: Letting the music fuel the ride
I’m piloting my Yamaha Tenere 700 briskly in a westerly direction on Alabama 281, also known as Cheaha Road. I can’t shake…
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Smoky Mountain 500: Carrying my icon on iconic roads
Wanting to ride the Smoky Mountain 500 across Georgia, Tennessee and North Carolina for about four years now, I finally made plans…
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Going MADBR: Wildlife, water crossings and adventure
“Seven, not three.” I was saying in my helmet as we paddled knee deep across what turned out to be the last…
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The Smokies: Over, under and around
A morning breeze off the Oconaluftee River in Cherokee, North Carolina, eases the rising summer heat as I head north on U.S.…