A morning breeze off the Oconaluftee River in Cherokee, North Carolina, eases the rising summer heat as I head north on U.S. 441. Like many fellow motorcyclists, I can’t resist the lure of riding across the Great Smoky Mountains on such a glorious day. Taking 441 past the southern terminus of the Blue Ridge Parkway, I often encounter the herd of elk reintroduced to the park … [Read more...] about The Smokies: Over, under and around